In windows calculator, switch to programmer mode. Then to Hex.

Enter in 808000 then minus the MUT address (eg 804e90) your interested in.

Eg:

808000-804e90 = 3170

In your dissassembly program search for Immediate Value (in IDA pro for example its the binoculars icon with the blue #).  Enter in 0xvalue – in above example 0x3170.

This will locate all examples of where this memory location was read or set.

If you’re wanting to log a memory address you can see in the code, but not in the MUT table, its the reverse:

Lets say its something like this (2 byte load memory address for CVT rcolt):

Locating 2b byte load on cvt rcolt

Using windows calculator again, hex mode :

0x808000 – 0x3164 = 0x804E9C

So the entry you’d want in the MUT table is 0x804E9C, place this where ever you think appropriate to log (you can pick any spot, just dont pick a MUT location you actually use when logging like RPM, throttle, load, knocksum .. then tell your logging program which MUT request to make to correspond with where you put it ).

In this instance its one byte of a two byte memory location for ecuload, so we’d want to write 0x804E9C and 0x804E9D into the MUT table.  I normally put both of these into MUT00 and MUT01.

If you’re looking for CZT Mut 2 byte load addresses – for 49100032 and 49100033 it’s 804d30 and 804d31

The post Locating MUT addresses in dissasembled Colt Ralliart code appeared first on Turbo Colt.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/nqlyvc2lurpxn1k/38350016_Colt_Ralliart_Version-R_JDM_2007.zip?dl=0

The 400 load blog posts on this site apply to the above XML too.  If you’re after a base file to start from, heres one with the 400 load patch applied, and the MUT table adjsuted to enable the required 2 byte load logging:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qfaombe6vn1gkik/Stock%20Map-2%20Pot%20400L.bin?dl=0

Note this is for the Manual JDM Rcolts only – do not flash this onto a CVT one (unless you’ve converted it to manual), or an AUDM Rcolt.

If you’re after the 400 load patch and XML for Australian Mitsubishi Colt Ralliarts, I’ve ported Antti’s work to AUDM, and added it into my extended XML for Aussie Rcolts. I’ll do a post/share that when I get time.

Apologies for the brievity, hope this helps & good luck!

The post JDM Z27AG Mitsubishi Colt Ralliart Version R 400 Load Patch XML appeared first on Turbo Colt.

The engine measures boost via a Mitsubishi concept of Ecuload, with a value between 0 – 200.  By default the Ecuload logging only goes up to 160, despite the ecu being able to see up to 200 ecuload.  How much boost is this? The following table is a rough guide (credit Merlin, Evo X tuning guide):

Boost vs EcuLoad

So the Rcolt Ecu can only see up to 200 load (about 17-18 psi depending on mods).  This means any map in the rcolt ecu that goes past 200 load will not be used by the ecu, instead it will use the 200 load column (fuel, ignition, mivec etc).  As ecuload is also a measure of the amount of air the engine is receiving, it also means as you go over the 200 load figure to say 220 load, the ecu is seeing and fuelling only to 200 load worth of air. This will cause the ecu to run leaner than the targeted AFR ration in the fuel maps, potentially catastrophically leaner depending on your boost level and richness of target AFR.

Another negative of the 200 ecuload limit is that the boost control system starts to not function properly as you approach and exceed 200 load. You might dangerously overboosting at 250 ecuload, but as the ecu only sees 200 load, it does not react to the overboost condition, potentially causing problems.

Fueling

With 400 load patch applied, the ECU will be more able to hit the target AFR ratio. A highly tuned Rcolt’s fuel map without 400 load patch might have a number of seemingly very rich AFR ratios in its fuel map like the example below:

With 400 load patch this over fueling compensation is not needed, and you can target closer to what you actually want to hit.  Example below:

Boost Control

With 400 load patch applied we can turn back on the factory ECU’s reactive boost. This is both a safety mechanism to stop over boost, but also a way to achieve faster spool when the ecu is not hitting the target boost you are wanting.

Turning on Reactive boost with 3 port boost solenoid

The following shows the configuration to set up reactive boost on a 3 port boost solenoid system:

WGDC and Boost Target Engine Load

The two WGDC tables define the wastegate duty cycle values for 1^st and 2^nd gear, and then 3^rd thru to 5^th gear.  With reactive boost, these tables set the initial wastegate duty cycle (WGDC). The ecu then compares the current ecuload figure against the equivalent Boost Target Engine Load table value (again 2 maps for the gears) plus the ‘Boost Offset’ value.

For example. We are in 2^nd gear, at 4,000 rpms and full throttle.  The WGDC map 1 (for 1^st and 2^nd gear) sets WGDC to 43.5%:

Lets say the car hits 160 ecuload.  The ecu then gets the corresponding value from Boost Target Engine Load #1:

In this case, 140.  It then adds this to the Boost offset value, to arrive at the final target load we are wanting to hit.  With a boost offset of 75, it means the ecu wants to hit 140 + 75 = 215 ecuload, much more than our current 160 ecuload.  The ecu will then modify the WGDC being used based on the reactive boost tables mentioned earlier (Reactive Solenoid Max Total upward WGDC correction tables etc).  So WGDC is increased, and the car’s boost & ecu load starts to raise. It continues to try and hit the target, adding (or subtracting) constantly during operation.  With this example we would see the car start to spool up faster than it would have otherwise.

The other benefit is over boost protection.  Lets say we are hitting 250 load, but the target ecu load + boost offset = 215.  WGDC would be reduced to try and rein in boost until it hit the target, providing a safety need. This safety net is particularly useful on the track, or on the dyno when a slower ramp up rate is being used.

Logging

To load an ecu with the 400 load patch you need to apply the MUT 2 Byte Ecuload patch.  This is done by changing the first two values in the MUT table to :

Then use your regular logging method (Tactrix or Evoscan, see turbocolt.com on how to set this up), with MUT 2 Byte Load logging enabled.

Other Random Notes

Launch Control

Example:

1^st & 2^nd Gear Throttle Limiter

Stock ecu limits throttle in 1^st and 2^nd gear, making 1^st gear easier to launch, but inhibiting 2^nd gear acceleration. This can be turned off by changing the table from stock settings to 100%:

Disabling Cat Warmup

The negative timing, and the leaner fuel serve to help the cat reach operating temperature faster. Set to 0, and 14.7 to achieve a smoother cold driving experience.

Disabling Immobiliser

Setting bit.03 to 0x0 disables the immobilizer check before starting:

Disabling 2^nd O2 Sensor

As above but set bit.01 to 0x0

Pops and Bangs

See turbocolt.com on how to set this up.  People want it, but its all a bit silly (and not as effective as modern pops and bangs or burble tunes).

Logging

See turbocolt.com for guide on Evoscan or Tactrix Logging. Also check out the bit about 200 load logging, to ensure you are capturing the newly patched 400 ecuload limit

Example Changes to Non 400 load tuned ROM:

Fuel Maps:

No longer need to target super rich AFR’s to try and compensate for ECU getting fueling wrong. Assuming injectors & MAF is dialed in nicely can set the fuel map to hit what you actually want to hit:

High Octane Fuel Map, before, unpatched:

After, patched:

Spark Maps:

Build up the ignition more progressively. Log knocksum and adjust ignition maps appropriately.

Tuned Hi Octane Spark Map 1, Mivec Max – map before:

Tuned map, after (note if tracking probably want to take more timing out):

Note – that is just an example, often timing ends up lower than this. To find the right timing, a combination of knocksum & traditional dyno tuning techniques should be combined. On boost, any regular repeatable knocksum value should be reduced to zero by decreasing timing until it does not occur anymore.

The above map will be used when MIVEC advance hits its maximum value.  The other hi octane maps are for MIVEC at minimum, or at target and should be adjusted similarly.

Comparing Changes in the Base to what you had before

Load up both srf files in Ecuflash, go file->compare Roms. This will highlight all maps with a change.

Summary of changes made – 400 load, timing map changes (log knocksum to see if safe), stationary launch enabled, cat warmup stuff removed (smoother cold driving), dual boost maps back on (wgdc 1 and 2), reactive boost back on (faster spool, overboost protection), more mivec (trial it maybe you like the old map), modified wastegate/boost maps for faster spool (will need tweaking, could be too much or too little – change both WGDC maps AND boost target load maps), Mut 2 byte load mod (enables proper ecuload logging).

The post Mitsubishi Colt Ralliart 400 Load Patch – AUDM JDM Rcolt Z27AG appeared first on Turbo Colt.

A reprint from Law’s DIY Blog

The following writeup was taken from a now deleted blog 'Laws DIY Adventures', detailing how to work with the reactive boost system on Mitsubishi Colt Ralliart and CZT models.  Law - if you come across this and mind my reprint please reach out. Have added to here so I don't lose it and I think it's a great help to many others. Here it is in it's unedited original form:

Righteo, for the last few years I’ve been mainly covering minor suspension modifications but its finally time to start on increasing power output. First on the list is boost tuning, there’s a huge amount of information on this topic for Evo’s of all generations and Lancer Ralliarts but for the Ralliart colt…. There isn’t much at all. So I figured I’ll put together something for my own reference and for anyone that wants to give it a go.

Disclaimer: I am not a tuner, I don’t claim to be. I don’t have an engineering background of any sort. I’m just a keen individual interested in DIY who seeks to better understand things. With that said, I wont be responsible for any damage what soever caused by following this guide.

Items you need before getting started

• Tactrix Openport 2.0 (No reflash adaptors needed).
• ECUFlash.
• Evoscan
• Ralliart Colt AUS ECU definitions.
• 3Port solenoid of your choosing (A GM 3 port has been used for this guide, but it will be almost the same for any others e.g. Grimmspeed, Tactrix, Perrin, Cobb, MAC … )
• Boost Gauge (Again essential but if you dont have it, follow below warnings).
• Wideband (Quite essential but if you dont have it, follow below warnings).

Software Setup

1. Purchase Evoscan (its a small cost and a great tool which will become invaluable during tuning).
2. Download megalogviewerHD, great tool to aid in visualization of logged data.

2. Now you need to install a 3 port in the following configuration. You can choose to keep 1 restrictor pill on the compressor > Solenoid line if you wish however keep in mind the addition of a restrictor pill will change the WGDC settings later on. The 3port has been setup in a Interrupt configuration where the wastegate sees no pressure unless the ECU says so. NOTE: Please check the manual on the solenoid you are using to determine what each port does.

What tables are involved (That I know of)

Now that you have completed the above (from a hardware and software perspective you are all good to go). Before starting however, I would strongly recommend spending some time reading up on Merlins Evo X Tuning guide (Evo VII/VIII) one is okay as well. Just to give yourself some background and understanding.

Disclaimer 2: The following focuses purely on the aspects of how to tune boost, you must take into consideration other factors such as ignition timing, AFR’s, MIVEC, Limiters etc etc. It would be extremely unwise to just alter the following boost maps without consideration of any of the above.

Tables that you need to be aware of are shown below with brief explanations. Note table names are taking from the Merlin definitions so may not be 100% correct.

Setup tables

You should only really need to set these up once at the beginning and once at the end, unless you run into issues or would like to fine tune things further.

Descriptions below from left to right.

WGDC MAX vs Coolant temp

This table seems to have a direct impact to WGDC when modified, however I dont believe it has been labelled correctly in regards to coolant temp. Would need someone more cluey and in tune with the dev side of things to look further into this. Advice is to leave it alone and tune within the stock parameters.

Boost Limit

Pretty self explanatory, the load limits allowed at each RPM interval. Exceed this figure in combination with the Boost cut delay timer and you will hit limp mode. This is a key safety table and should be adjusted accordingly.

Boost Crossover RPM/MPH # 2 and #3

Used to control at which point the maps switch from Boost Target Engine Load Low/High and WGDC 1 and 2. Best left alone, there is no need to change this.

Boost Cut Delay Timer

The amount of time in ms before boost cut is enforced.

Correction Tables

Once the above is setup, the next lot of tables to look at are the correction tables. These tables will actively add/subtract WGDC based on error %’s and TPS to try match the prescribed boost load targets.

Descriptions from left to right (top down)

Reactive Solenoid Max Total Upward WGDC Correction vs TPS

Max WGDC upward corrections based on TPS%

WGDC Correction Interval

Defines what interval the ECU will sample boost at for active corrections.

WGDC Max Total Downward Correction

Defines the max allowable downward WGDC correction.

Reactive Solenoid Turbo Boost Error Correction

The key correction table which dynamically adjusts load based on error %.

Target Loads and WGDC Tables

These set of tables directly control the boost targets you are trying to reach and the WGDC settings required to get there.

Boost Target Loads, WGDC and Boost offset

Boost Target Engine Load #1 LOW

3D table used in conjunction with Boost offset to determine target load in the lower gears as defined by the crossover maps.

WGDC #1

3D table used in conjunction with the Boost target engine load #1 table to control boost in the lower gears as defined by the crossover maps.

Boost Target Engine Load #2 HIGH 

3D table used in conjunction with Boost offset to determine target load in the higher gears as defined by the crossover maps.

WGDC #2

3D table used in conjunction with the Boost target engine load #2 table to control boost in the higher gears as defined by the crossover maps.
That is it for this post, aim was to simply go over the setup items and familiarise yourself with how ECU boost control works, the next post will cover the actual tuning.

—-

After going through the previous post, we should be in a position where everything is set-up and ready to go, Moving on to tuning.

Now that we hopefully understand all the tables involved we can start tune our boost. This section will only cover the base settings and strategy needed to get you going. I wont be including any finalised maps as each car is different and even the slightest differences in modifications will affect boost control dramatically.

Disclaimer: I am not a tuner, I don’t claim to be. I don’t have an engineering background of any sort. I’m just a keen individual interested in DIY who seeks to better understand things. With that said, I wont be responsible for any damage what soever caused by following this guide.

Where do I put in the PSI I want to hit?

There is no such thing, the boost control and entire ECU on the colt reads in LOAD. Merlin has put together a rough table on what load corresponds to what PSI for an Evo. Do not follow this blindly to set target loads, I have found through my own testing though that 160-180 loads roughly line up to the ranges shown in the table but this is not concrete.

Disclaimer: A few things to consider before we get into it.

• Never set WGDC to more than 40% on either table #1 or #2 when starting to tune (with or without a pill, this is a safe number to start on and will ensure you have yourself a safe baseline to work from.
• As the stock turbo is tiny, WGDC changes in the 2000-2500rpm are especially sensitive. Take extra precaution when adjusting WGDC in these areas as they are normally the key cells which trigger overboost and boost cuts.
• Ensure you remember that Target loads + Boost offset determines the final load you are trying to hit. e.g. 150 target load + 20 offset = 170 final target load*.
• Ensure the Boost limit has been raised accordingly prior to tuning, aka if we are trying to target 15psi which is very roughly ~170ish load, hence Boost limit should be raised to 190 as a start incase of overboost.
• Never lean out AFR’s without a Wideband and especially not during boost tuning. You will find that the stock AFR’s are fairly rich from stock and dip into the 10’s on higher loads, this will be fine for establishing a baseline boost curve. HOWEVER , if during runs knock is detected. Ensure the culprit cells are checked and consider the AFR as well as ignition timing before continuing.
• Always always watch for knock, the stock map is knock prone across the whole spectrum. For the purposes of this guide we are especially interested in knocks above 100 load which we consider to be the transition into positive boost pressure. Any knocks found whilst on boost should be treated seriously especially if it is repeatable.
• I follow the rule in which any knocks greater than 3 AND repeatable must be taken care of. Sporadic 1 or 2 counts are fine by my standards but any successive repeatable chain knocks must be addressed.

Boost tuning strategy

Step 1 – Setting a baseline.

Baseline settings (only shown for low maps, do the same for high)

Step 2 – Do a few runs and log the results.

Step 3 – Stepping up WGDC slowly to reach our desired loads.

A few runs in, look at the WHITE lines in the middle and bottom charts.
NOTE: this run is done in 2nd gear, same concept applies for higher gears.

Step 4 – Repeating above for both high and low gears

Step 5 – Switch reactive corrections back on

Corrections back on but at a reduced setting.

Step 5 – Fine tuning post corrections

Finished boost curve with corrections on.

Wrap up and things to consider

End of Copy/Paste. Thank you Law!

The post Colt Boost Tuning 101 – Reprint from Law’s DIY Blog appeared first on Turbo Colt.

Specs

Wilwood superlite calipers (4pot),
Hawk discs (309mm 32mm thick 2 piece fixed)
MRP hats, brackets & braided lines
Circo M119 Road Rally competition pads

Install Notes

The kit uses a mix of imperial and metric parts. Given it’s a colt I’ll assume you’ll have the metric stuff handy. You’ll need the following imperial stuff – 1/2, 1/4, 7/16 spanners/sockets, as well as 3/16 and 1.4 (need to confirm?) hex.  You’ll also need something like a 16mm drill bit to widen one of the brake line brackets off the strut & something like a 12mm cerclip (or something similar) to hold the brake line in the new larger bracket hole.

Install order is something like:

• Remove calipers and brake lines & discs
• Test fit dog bone, disc, caliper, brake lines
• Check out the brake dust shield – you will want to consider removing or heavily trimming
• Check how the brake line looks, you want to avoid hard turns/angles, and handle strut turning
• Drill out the brake line bracket hole that leads to the caliper on the front. We used 16mm drillbit, in a vice.
• Test fit brake line again, feeding it thru the larger bracket hole. On my car this showed we needed to relocate the stock brake line bracket lower by about 60mm. Made an additional bracket to lower the OEM bracket.
• Lock the brake line into place with a cerclip or similar (if you just need something to get by, could use something very temporary like a cable tie)
• From here its basically just double check things, put pads in, bolt it all up and do the bleeding (I did all wheels, starting furthest corner from the master)

There were few additional problems we encountered:

• Brake fluid would leak out the back of the caliper where the brake line screws in. You need to do it up very tight – be careful of rounding the bolt. Test its not leaking by stomping on the brakes when stationary and inspect.
• Brake pads were too tall. We had to grind off 0.5mm off my pads metal backing, on the top surface to get them to nicely click in.

Impressions

Bedded in – seems great, feel a bit firmer than stock but nothing too drastic. Seems to stop well but need a track day to really report on it. Pads are a quite a bit noisier, will need a softer setup for the street.  Have applied stop squeal which has made it bearable in the meantime.

Photos

The post Colt Ralliart Big Brake Upgrade Wilwood appeared first on Turbo Colt.

Sounds like a bad idea? It probably is, but it its a neat party trick. As with everything on this site, do it at your own risk!!

Step 1 – Delay fuel cut

For the above method to work you need to delay how long it is before the ECU cuts fuel on throttle lift off.  To do this you will probably need to add the following new table into your Ralliart Colt’s XML:

Once added, you should be able to set this to something longer than stock, such as this:

Note the default is 500ms. If you have a value other than this after defining the table, it’s probably in a different location in your ROM and you’ll need someone to disassemble it to find it (leave a comment if you need help).

Step 2- Retard the Ignition

Now we want to run a lot of negative timing.  The example below produced quite a bit of pops and bangs and we ended up having to reduce the overall number of -15 degrees cells.  The car in question had a straight thru exhaust, which really helps these settings work.  On cars with catalytic converters, the settings below might not be as extreme:

Now the thing to focus on here is the pattern of -15’s. Don’t copy this ignition map, it probably wont suit your car.  The idea is to set a similar region of -15’s in all your ignition maps, at light throttle, and above a certain rev range.  The lower the revs and the greater the throttle range you do it for, the more it will do it.

Step 3 – Add more fuel

In the same or similar areas of the map that you set -15’s for in the ignition maps, we want to run more fuel than normal.  Set 10’s where you want to encourage pops.  Here’s an example but note this one doesn’t exactly match the ignition map changes – I was concerned about washing the bores in petrol unnecessarily so went a little tentative:

Step 4 – Flash and Revise

Flash it on and test it out. It won’t give your Ralliart Colt  pops and bangs all the time, but it will make it a lot more likely.  To test it out play with lifting off throttle, when your car hits the -15 & 10:1 cells you set.  In this example, to test I would accelerate in 2nd or 3rd, then back off leaving revs 3500 or above.  Then back on & off throttle again. It should be enough to make it happen.  Best results are experienced when doing a hills run when you’re on/off throttle a lot, and at higher revs than just cruising.

Let me know if you find a more effective way to do it in the comments! Thanks.

The post Ralliart Colt Z27AG Pops and Bangs appeared first on Turbo Colt.

This is just a rough guide, don’t take my estimates that seriously just vague ball parks. All kW figures are at front wheels on roller dyno.

Stage 0

~90-95kW

Stage 0.5

95-100kW
K&N Panel Filter
Boost Pill out
Tune

Stage 1

110-124kW (depending on boost/risk profile)
K&N Panel Filter
3 port boost solenoid (grimspeed evo X unit is easiest)
Evo MR Metal Bov
Fuel Pump (walbro 255 or similar)
Tune

Stage 1.5

115-128kW (depending on boost/risk profile)
As above but cat back exhaust

Stage 2

130-140kW
As above but turbo back exhaust
Front mount intercooler (Todd Munkman kits fit awesome)

Stage 2+ extras:

kW as above but more likely on higher end – any of:
Injectors (WRX 440s or larger)
Exhaust manifold
Upgraded Wastegate Actuator

Stage 3

140-180kW depending on type of turbo
As above but
Alternate turbo
Easiest is stock frame turbo Like Kinugawa Hybrid turbo tf035-15t, full td04 in tf035 shell, or Blitz Turbo. Best outcome is probably not with stock frame turbo unless a fancy hybrid or Blitz

Stage 4

200kW and beyond (your budget sets the limit)
Much more serious mods – forged engine, head work, bigger turbo, aftermarket ecu, e85 & more

E85 on stages <4 add +10-20kW @ wheels

The post Quick & Dirty Ralliart Colt Mod Guide appeared first on Turbo Colt.

I’ve set up a group for turbocolt.com on Drivetribe here https://www.drivetribe.com/t/SN-lTIwrTpmEt8EG4IJE-g/S4hh4CEjSsKsdfTkwdgWuw

You can use it to follow updates on here, and to get other not blog post worthy updates and photos.  I don’t intend on it being as large asthe other Colt groups but who knows, it might take off more than expected.

So what are the other larger Colt groups on DriveTribe? Check out these ones:

• Colt Status (run by Rcolt.com Facebook team) link here
• TurboColtUK (run by TurbColtUK Facebook team) link here
• Ralliart Colt Adelaide (run by me for the local scene in Adelaide, South Australia, also has a FB group of the same name) link here

Enjoy!

The post DRIVETRIBE Colt Groups appeared first on Turbo Colt.

The 08 M/Y RG Colt Ralliart is based on the 07 M/Y RG Colt Ralliart with the following changes;

• Alloy wheels have changed from 16×6.5JJ to 16×6.5J type.

06-07 wheels                                             08-10 wheels

• Head lamp colour change from argent to bright.

06-07 headlights                                                08-10 headlights

• Park brake lever is changed from leather type to urethane type with chrome coloured release button.
• Recaro front seats have been replaced by Sports type front seats.

06-07 recaro seats (from evo 8 mr)                08-10 sports seats

• Rear head rests have changed from large to small type.
• Ashtray has been deleted.
• Paint colour range has changed. Code for White Pearl (DA) has changed.

06-07 paint range  

08-10 paint range

Anything we’ve missed? Hit us up in the comments below!

The post AU Ralliart Colt – Changes between 2006 and 2008 appeared first on Turbo Colt.

I’ve made an XML stub file to help in the process, but it’s not essential.   If you’re looking for the complete XML for the JDM models I might be able to help (leave a comment below and I’ll email you).

Anyway back to downloading your ECU rom image.  Here goes:

Install EcuFlash from this link

https://www.dropbox.com/s/u55hat1zck70krz/ecuflash_1444247_win_beta.exe?dl=0

I’ve had reports that the later versions of ECUFlash have some issues reading and writing, so until I’ve investigated these myself I recommend running this older version.

Put the XML in

Go to C:\Program Files (x86)\OpenECU\EcuFlash\rommetadata\mitsubishi folder

Make directory called ‘Ralliart Colt Turbo’

Download these two xml files and put it in this new folder

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7k5nw3ywjnnfwsf/38350016%20JDM%20MT%20Andy.xml?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nudulw5nrts9jes/Coltbase.xml?dl=0

Connect to your ECU

Connect the tactrix to your computer via USB.

Run EcuFlash

In the Menu to ECU->Select Vehicle Type. Make sure its set to Colt (768k) 2006+ mitsubootloader M32176F6. There should only be one Colt (768k) entry.

Now you should be ready to read your ROM!

**

In the car, boot up your laptop. Connect Tactrix to laptop. Now connect to OBDII port of your car.

Now with everything connected up you should be able to go menu ECU-> Read from ECU

Software will display an information box asking you to turn on your ignition. Do so, and then click ok. You want ignition on, not just accessories.

It should now be reading your rom. If not? Remove tactrix from OBDII port and reconnect it. Try again. If still not working, unplug it from the computer and the car, then plug back into the computer, then the car, and try again. Still not working? Try wobbling it in the OBDII port to put it at a small angle (just to see if that improves the contacts). Still not working? Houston we have a problem.

Assuming no problem, and the ROM was downloaded?!

Go Menu File – Save ROM As, change the file type to .BIN, call it something, and done.

EPIC WINS.  You have now completed your Z27AG JDM Colt Version R ECU Download.

The post Z27AG JDM Colt Version R ECU Download appeared first on Turbo Colt.