Sounds like a bad idea? It probably is, but it its a neat party trick. As with everything on this site, do it at your own risk!!

Step 1 – Delay fuel cut

For the above method to work you need to delay how long it is before the ECU cuts fuel on throttle lift off.  To do this you will probably need to add the following new table into your Ralliart Colt’s XML:

Once added, you should be able to set this to something longer than stock, such as this:

Note the default is 500ms. If you have a value other than this after defining the table, it’s probably in a different location in your ROM and you’ll need someone to disassemble it to find it (leave a comment if you need help).

Step 2- Retard the Ignition

Now we want to run a lot of negative timing.  The example below produced quite a bit of pops and bangs and we ended up having to reduce the overall number of -15 degrees cells.  The car in question had a straight thru exhaust, which really helps these settings work.  On cars with catalytic converters, the settings below might not be as extreme:

Now the thing to focus on here is the pattern of -15’s. Don’t copy this ignition map, it probably wont suit your car.  The idea is to set a similar region of -15’s in all your ignition maps, at light throttle, and above a certain rev range.  The lower the revs and the greater the throttle range you do it for, the more it will do it.

Step 3 – Add more fuel

In the same or similar areas of the map that you set -15’s for in the ignition maps, we want to run more fuel than normal.  Set 10’s where you want to encourage pops.  Here’s an example but note this one doesn’t exactly match the ignition map changes – I was concerned about washing the bores in petrol unnecessarily so went a little tentative:

Step 4 – Flash and Revise

Flash it on and test it out. It won’t give your Ralliart Colt  pops and bangs all the time, but it will make it a lot more likely.  To test it out play with lifting off throttle, when your car hits the -15 & 10:1 cells you set.  In this example, to test I would accelerate in 2nd or 3rd, then back off leaving revs 3500 or above.  Then back on & off throttle again. It should be enough to make it happen.  Best results are experienced when doing a hills run when you’re on/off throttle a lot, and at higher revs than just cruising.

Let me know if you find a more effective way to do it in the comments! Thanks.

The post Ralliart Colt Z27AG Pops and Bangs appeared first on Turbo Colt.

Been ages between posts.  Thought I’d break the drought with some photos of my new ralliart gauge setup and larger rear wing.

The new wing:

And another shot

The post My Ralliart Colt – Ralliart 1DIN Gauge & Big wing appeared first on Turbo Colt.

This is just a rough guide, don’t take my estimates that seriously just vague ball parks. All kW figures are at front wheels on roller dyno.

Stage 0

~90-95kW

Stage 0.5

95-100kW
K&N Panel Filter
Boost Pill out
Tune

Stage 1

110-124kW (depending on boost/risk profile)
K&N Panel Filter
3 port boost solenoid (grimspeed evo X unit is easiest)
Evo MR Metal Bov
Fuel Pump (walbro 255 or similar)
Tune

Stage 1.5

115-128kW (depending on boost/risk profile)
As above but cat back exhaust

Stage 2

130-140kW
As above but turbo back exhaust
Front mount intercooler (Todd Munkman kits fit awesome)

Stage 2+ extras:

kW as above but more likely on higher end – any of:
Injectors (WRX 440s or larger)
Exhaust manifold
Upgraded Wastegate Actuator

Stage 3

140-180kW depending on type of turbo
As above but
Alternate turbo
Easiest is stock frame turbo Like Kinugawa Hybrid turbo tf035-15t, full td04 in tf035 shell, or Blitz Turbo. Best outcome is probably not with stock frame turbo unless a fancy hybrid or Blitz

Stage 4

200kW and beyond (your budget sets the limit)
Much more serious mods – forged engine, head work, bigger turbo, aftermarket ecu, e85 & more

E85 on stages <4 add +10-20kW @ wheels

The post Quick & Dirty Ralliart Colt Mod Guide appeared first on Turbo Colt.

I’ve set up a group for turbocolt.com on Drivetribe here https://www.drivetribe.com/t/SN-lTIwrTpmEt8EG4IJE-g/S4hh4CEjSsKsdfTkwdgWuw

You can use it to follow updates on here, and to get other not blog post worthy updates and photos.  I don’t intend on it being as large asthe other Colt groups but who knows, it might take off more than expected.

So what are the other larger Colt groups on DriveTribe? Check out these ones:

• Colt Status (run by Rcolt.com Facebook team) link here
• TurboColtUK (run by TurbColtUK Facebook team) link here
• Ralliart Colt Adelaide (run by me for the local scene in Adelaide, South Australia, also has a FB group of the same name) link here

Enjoy!

The post DRIVETRIBE Colt Groups appeared first on Turbo Colt.

I’ve made an XML stub file to help in the process, but it’s not essential.   If you’re looking for the complete XML for the JDM models I might be able to help (leave a comment below and I’ll email you).

Anyway back to downloading your ECU rom image.  Here goes:

Install EcuFlash from this link

https://www.dropbox.com/s/u55hat1zck70krz/ecuflash_1444247_win_beta.exe?dl=0

I’ve had reports that the later versions of ECUFlash have some issues reading and writing, so until I’ve investigated these myself I recommend running this older version.

Put the XML in

Go to C:\Program Files (x86)\OpenECU\EcuFlash\rommetadata\mitsubishi folder

Make directory called ‘Ralliart Colt Turbo’

Download these two xml files and put it in this new folder

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7k5nw3ywjnnfwsf/38350016%20JDM%20MT%20Andy.xml?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nudulw5nrts9jes/Coltbase.xml?dl=0

Connect to your ECU

Connect the tactrix to your computer via USB.

Run EcuFlash

In the Menu to ECU->Select Vehicle Type. Make sure its set to Colt (768k) 2006+ mitsubootloader M32176F6. There should only be one Colt (768k) entry.

Now you should be ready to read your ROM!

**

In the car, boot up your laptop. Connect Tactrix to laptop. Now connect to OBDII port of your car.

Now with everything connected up you should be able to go menu ECU-> Read from ECU

Software will display an information box asking you to turn on your ignition. Do so, and then click ok. You want ignition on, not just accessories.

It should now be reading your rom. If not? Remove tactrix from OBDII port and reconnect it. Try again. If still not working, unplug it from the computer and the car, then plug back into the computer, then the car, and try again. Still not working? Try wobbling it in the OBDII port to put it at a small angle (just to see if that improves the contacts). Still not working? Houston we have a problem.

Assuming no problem, and the ROM was downloaded?!

Go Menu File – Save ROM As, change the file type to .BIN, call it something, and done.

EPIC WINS.  You have now completed your Z27AG JDM Colt Version R ECU Download.

The post Z27AG JDM Colt Version R ECU Download appeared first on Turbo Colt.

The Australian version of the Ralliart Colt turbo was released for sale in August, 2006 and was sold through to late 2011. Unlike many other budget hot hatches featuring only body kit & a set of mags, this pocket rocket was the real deal.  It had the obligatory body kit (featuring some aggressive wheel flares and an evo-style bonnet vent!), a MIVEC twin cam intercooled turbo 1.5, Ralliart tuned suspension, bigger brakes and a beautiful set of recaros borrowed from its elder brother the Evo 8 MR.

This is a good list, but there are a few other things that set the Ralliart Colt Turbo apart from the dressed-up hot hatches in its segment.  Starting with the bare chassis, they were separated out from the regular Colt manufacturing line and sent to Ralliart to prepare. There Ralliart added metal plates and additional welds to structurally reinforce and stiffen the Colt chassis. This additional chassis work resulted in the Ralliart Colt having the greatest torsional rigidity of any car Mitsy were selling at the time.  Once this had been completed the improved chassis was sent back to the Mitsubishi line for final assembly.

Interior Shot with JDM Red Trim

The 5 speed gearbox is a strong GETRAG unit, very similar to the units used in the BMW Mini Cooper S’s. A testament to its strength is the fact that Australia’s fastest modified Ralliart Colt, with a massive 285kW @ the front wheels still runs the original gearbox.  Having same design as the Mini Cooper S ‘box means that LSD’s designed for the Mini, can also fit the Ralliart Colt.

One of the things that can take some getting used to is the tall body design that the Ralliart Colt inherits from is humble Colt origins.  Despite this, it handles very well and and is a lot of fun point to point.  In a Motor Bang-For-Your-Buck test, it was faster around the test track than the 2006 Ford Focus XR5, so don’t let the body shape fool you.

The 1468cc twin cam MIVEC turbo engine in stock trim puts out 113-115kw @ at 6000rpms (210NM @ 3500rpm).  The 4G15T engine features a weight-saving hollow camshaft, low friction pistons and stronger drivetrain mountings.  Stock Ralliart Colts usually dyno around 90-95kW at the wheels.  This may not seem like much, but with a kerb weight of 1130kgs, even in stock trim the Rcolt performs well.  Things really start to get exciting though, when you make a few basic modifications. There’s a boost restrictor pill, which can be removed to provide an instant improvement in peak boost (read up on this at www.rcolt.com).

Then the ECU is very similar in design to the EvoX ECU, being an M32R processor.  Like the EvoX it can be flash tuned using a Tactrix OpenPort2 device (~$250AUD) & free software EcuFlash.  There is a free opensource tune available called the ‘Macca Flash’ and is a good starting point – think of it as a stage1 flash tune.  With this, and the following mods :

• K & N panel filter
• Upgraded recirculating blow off value (EVO MR or Turbosmart)
• Grimmspeed 3 Port Boost Control Solenoid

An Australian Ralliart Colt turbo will put out between 110kW and 120kW at the wheels.  Total cost for this will be low, especially if you’re prepared to DIY it ($300 – $500).

TF035-15T Hybrid Turbo Upgrade

What if you want more? There aren’t many bolt up turbo options, but a front mount intercooler, upgraded fuel pump and a turbo back exhaust will net you in the range of 130-144kW at the wheels.  In terms of power to weight, this is pretty decent.

So that’s enough on the specs and performance potential.  Fuel economy? Stock you can expect a combined cycle of 6.7L/100km.  Reliability? Pretty darn good. There are modified Rcolts driving round that are getting very close to 300,000km’s, and apart from the usual maintenance, have been easy care.

But, I need to also give you a disclaimer. In the early days of rcolt.com, there were a few Ralliart Colts that suffered engine failures.  It’s widely reported that this was due to a poor aftermarket ECU, too much boost and/or a tune that was too aggressive.  Unfortunately, it’s the pioneers that learn the tough lessons. If you’re into DIY -read up, learn the ins & outs and don’t rush things.  If you’re happier having someone else to do the mods then make sure it is a reputable tuner who has experience with these cars.  Do these things, and you’ll have trouble free motoring.

Finally, what do they sell for?  There’s a pretty wide range of prices on the market at the moment.  Some as low as $6000, to as high as $15,000.  For a good one with lowish km’s expect to pay between 8 & 12k.

This is pretty cheap for a modern turbo car that will surprise you and anyone you meet on the road.   But don’t just take my word for it, here’s some reviews:

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=Mitsubishi-Colt-Ralliart&A=108017

http://www.caradvice.com.au/1028/2006-mitsubishi-colt-ralliart-road-test/

http://www.motoring.com.au/reviews/2006/small-passenger/mitsubishi/colt/mitsubishi-colt-ralliart-1562

Any questions, check out the websites above, go to www.rcolt.com or hit me up in the comments & I’ll do my best to answer.

The post Australian Ralliart Colt Turbo appeared first on Turbo Colt.